[Openicc] Drop size calibration
Lars Tore Gustavsen
lars.tore at mulebakken.net
Sat Feb 2 05:50:27 PST 2008
On 2/2/08, Robert Krawitz > wrote:
>
> The basic way I would do it in both cases would be to print a linear
> sweep and try to find a best fit constant that would relate the two
> curves, or at least the lower part of the curves before dot
> gain/saturation issues started to come into play (particularly for
> variable drops).
>
> Maybe I really do need a spectrometer...
If so, there is a new rebate going on in US if you live there.
http://xritephoto.com/html/i1Photo_LT_Rebate_Cert3.pdf
Relatives in US picked up mine up last summer with an similar rebate
from this ebay seller:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150211241322
In the ends it was around $500. In Norway a colorimeter from xrite are
more than that.
> Hal writes
> In addition I don't know how much variation there is from printer
> to printer. That is some of the problems I was seeing in the
> curves of my printer may not show up in your R2400 or the one
> Robert has. Perhaps you could run a set of test measurements using
> the same settings I did and drop those into the spreadsheet. If
> the curves look like mine then this is likely not something
> specific to my printer.
>
> In this particular case I'm willing to all but guarantee that you'll
> get very similar results.
>
I can always print a sample, but since I don't have the Ilford paper
it will takes a while.
> So here's a very rough cut at a workflow (with a bunch of steps left
> out for now; if this sounds interesting I'll flesh it out) I'd suggest
> for calibrating drop sizes and light inks. It's basically what I try
> to do by eyeball, but with measurements it could be done a lot more
> easily.
>
> 1) To calibrate light inks:
>
> A) Use the Ordered dither algorithm at a sufficiently high
> resolution to guarantee use of only one drop size. For printers
> with 4 pl or bigger drops, use 2880x1440; for 2 pl or bigger,
> use 2880x2880 if available, or otherwise 5760x1440; for 1 pl or
> bigger, use 5760x2880. Don't use a resolution much higher than
> this; you'll run into saturation problems.
>
> B) Using the paper of your choice, print a sweep of dark cyan using
> an appropriate number of patches, and also print a sweep of
> light cyan using the same number of patches, using Raw color
> correction. This can be done with the test pattern generator
> (this allows you to access the individual ink channels); I'll
> need to provide instructions. Then let dry as appropriate and
> measure.
>
> C) Find a best fit constant relating the two curves at each point.
> Ideally you should find that the dark cyan curve is consistently
> a certain amount darker, at any ink level, than the light cyan
> curve. If you get a good linear relationship in the lower part
> of the curve, use that.
>
> D) Set the Light Cyan Value to the constant, and Light Cyan
> Transition to 1, and compare a sweep printed with the "normal"
> cyan (mix of light and dark) against the dark cyan only curve.
> If you see a dip in the curve centered near the constant, reduce
> Light Cyan Transition appropriately. If you see a significant
> difference overall in the lower part of the curve, that means
> that your constant is wrong. If the lower part of the curve is
> too light, your constant is too high (not enough light ink is
> being used). If the lower part of the curve is too dark, your
> constant is too low (too much light ink is being used).
>
> For example: if you determine in step C that the constant
> relating light and dark cyan is 0.25, and you see a dip in the
> composite curve relative to the dark-only centered around 0.25,
> look to see where the dip starts. If the dip starts around 0.2,
> you want to reduce the light cyan transition to 0.8 (this means
> that dark cyan ink starts to be used when light cyan has reached
> 0.8).
>
> If the lower part of the curve is too dark overall, then your
> constant of 0.25 (meaning that light ink is 0.25 the value of
> dark ink, so 4x as much light ink is used to produce the same
> darkness) is too low, and you'll need to remeasure. Similarly,
> if it's too light overall, your constant of 0.25 is too high,
> and not enough dark ink is being used.
>
> Now repeat the measurement. If the two curves match, you're
> done. If not, make adjustments as described above and repeat.
>
> The Light Cyan Transition controls where light ink starts
> transitioning to dark ink. Generally, setting it to a lower
> value will produce a smoother and more "accurate" curve, but
> will yield grainier results, while setting it to a higher value
> will produce smoother texture but an increased dip in the
> midtones. You may find that after you've adjusted per-channel
> ink limits that you can make the value of this control larger.
>
> E) If you have three level inks (black/light black/light light
> black) or quadtone, the basic procedure is the same, except that
> you should do it pairwise with adjacent inks starting from the
> darkest inks (black/light black first). First calibrate black
> to light black. When you've achieved good calibration, then
> calibrate light black to light light black. When you've
> achieved good calibration there, combine all three. You'll need
> to look more carefully at errors in the curves...
>
> 2) To calibrate drop sizes:
>
> This needs to be done separately at each resolution you're
> interested in. I calibrate drop sizes using black.
>
> The basic process is similar to light ink adjustment, except that
> the upper part of the curve (when the ink is approaching
> saturation) will not yield a linear relationship. Again, you want
> to find a relationship that yields the smoothest composite curve.
> I usually use Ordered dithering for this, but you may want to use
> Ordered New, which will probably yield better transitions due to
> the three level dither.
>
> Again, the test pattern generator provides a way to print sweeps of
> the three drop sizes separately.
Thanks for a very nice writeup. Some examples with the testpattern
tool will certainly help. And this kind of documentation should be
include in the users' manual. I am also sure I have more questions. I
just have to read the instruction 10 more times :-). Of course more
information is also welcome.
Lars Tore Gustavsen
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